The surf was up, white-topped waves crashing into the shore. One wave seemed to be balancing, manoeuvring to get ahead of the others, a huge wave heading in fast. Billy jumped on the board, braced himself then smiled at the sheer exhilaration of riding the monster. The wave curled over his head as he approached the shore almost swallowing him up, but he came out on top smiling.
Written by John Yeo ©
Written by John Yeo ©
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